Ettore Roesler Franz (see also the reacher Italian Wikipedia page) was an Italian watercolors painter of German origin, who lived in Rome in the second half of the XIX century. He had a special relation with Tivoli, both the town (and its people) and the breathtaking surrounding countryside. His works (Wiki Gallery) are among the most impressive realist watercolors ever made, depicting Italy on the verge of the second industrial revolution, just after the unification years. Having in mind his works, a walk in the citadel is like a walk back in time on the same places were he used to sit, stare at the people and paint. People are much different today. Streets are only used for moving from one place to another. I can consider myself lucky: this year no cars nor scooters were on the way, between myself and the ghost of Ettore.